Bad Bad Leroy Brown™ is a specially formulated low bleed, high pigment, non-phthalate plastisol screen printing ink. Its creamy texture makes it easier to print using either automatic or manual screen printing presses.
Need more than a quart? Get ICC 788 Brown Plastisol Ink!
With Bad Bad Leroy Brown™, you’ll get better performance, production speed and excellent penetration into fabrics when printing through fine mesh counts. It is designed to print easily, allowing you to use a finer screen mesh to achieve the same opacity. That means less ink is needed, and prints are thinner, with a softer feel.
Bad Bad Leroy Brown™ is ready-to-use, with a medium gloss finish.
It can be used on 100% cotton and 50/50 poly/cotton blends.
A Poly White underbase is recommended for 100% Polyester.
Underbasing with white is recommended on dark fabrics.
It flashes very fast and cures with excellent wash-fastness.
Plastisol screen printing ink for apparel is brighter and more opaque than water-based screen printing inks. It holds up better under pressure and fades less, ensuring that your shirts can be worn for years.
There's a reason that most of the shirts you see in stores are printed with plastisol ink.
Plastisol pops with bright, luscious color.
It’s a durable and reliable choice that makes creating shirts easier.
Professional screenprinters love it because it doesn’t dry in the screen or container.
It doesn’t erode the emulsion on your screen, so you can print a lot more shirts without adding an emulsion hardener.
It’s easy to clean up with merchmakr™ Wipe Out™ press wash.
|Recommended Fabrics||100% cotton, some cotton/polyester blends and polyester. Always test print fabric before beginning a production run.|
|Ink Application||Bad Bad Leroy Brown™ can be printed right out of the containers without any modifications. If thinning is desired for special applications, use ICC 1110LF Curable Reducer for best results. For softer feeling prints, add 10% to 20% by volume, to the ink. Reducing the ink withICC 1110LF Curable Reducer and using finer screen meshes can also greatly improve the softness of the finish print.|
|Additives||If thinning is required, use 1% to 10% by weight of ICC 1110LF Curable Reducer. Adding any reducers or additives can lower the bleed resistance, opacity, or increase cure times of ink. STIR the ink prior to printing on press and after addition of reducers or additives.|
|Screen Mesh||Standard colors: 110 to 305 t/in or 43-120 t/cm Monofilament
High Pigment colors: 61 to 110 t/in or 24-43 t/cm Monofilament
|Emulsion||Any direct or indirect lacquer proof emulsion.
Use 20 to 30 micron capillary film for light colored fabrics and 35 to 70 micron film for dark fabrics.
|Squeegee||70 durometer sharp edge squeegee.|
|Cure Temperatures||325°F (163°C) entire ink film. Test dryer temperatures before a production run. Wash test printed product before beginning production run.|
|Clean-Up||Any environmentally friendly plastisol screen wash. For best results, use Merchmakr™ Wipe Out™ Press Wash.|
|Storage||65° to 90°F (18° to 32°C) Avoid storage in direct sunlight. Keep containers well sealed.|
Adding any reducers or additives can lower bleed resistance, reduce opacity, or increase cure times of the ink. Always stir the ink prior to printing and after the addition of reducers or additives.
Test dryer temperatures and wash test printed product before and during a production run.
This product will spot dry, with a very low after flash tack. Dwell time is dependent on the spot dryer used. In some cases, you may have to lower the heat of the spot cure unit because too much heat may actually make the ink tacky. When you spot dry, you are only partially fusing or gelling the surface of the ink. The ink should just be dry to the touch, with no lift off, but not totally fused. Totally fusing the underprint white may cause inter-coat adhesion problems with the inks printed on top of the white ink. Final fusing or curing will occur in the dryer.